Here are installation instructions for some of the parts that we sell.

Door Seal Installation Instructions

Materials Needed: Sharp knife or scissors, black weather-strip adhesive. 3-M makes an excellent product (available in our store).
Prior to installation remove the old seal and thoroughly clean the body lip with brake cleaner.

1.    Find the center of the material and cut it using a sharp knife or scissors. You now have a piece of material for each door.

2.    Take one piece and start at the bottom center of one door. You will see that the inside edge of the seal needs to be trimmed off at the bottom.

3.    Mark the place to stop trimming. Use a sharp knife or scissors and trim the lip off from the end to the mark.

4.    You can now slip the seal lip over the body lip working your way around the door opening. Use care not to stretch the seal. You want it to be relaxed as it is pushed into place.

5.    Work your way all the way around the opening. When you get to the bottom you will see that the seal lip again needs to be trimmed off. Use your sharp knife or scissors to trim this area away and trim the end to length. Make it very slightly longer so that there is no gap at the joint.

6.    Now you can remove the seal and reinstall it using the weather-strip adhesive. It helps to start at the top and work both ways to the bottom ends. The adhesive works best on the outside edge of the door lip.

Fuel Pump Installation Instructions

This is not the time to be smoking!
You may find it easier to remove the heater fan first before attempting to replace the fuel pump.
Disconnect power supply wire.
Using a 10 mm socket remove the mounting bolts.
Loosen both hose clamps.
Gently twist the hoses to loosen them and pull hoses off the pump. Some fuel may spill.
Remove pump from car.
This is a good time to replace the fuel filter and/or hoses.
Push fuel hoses onto new pump. Make sure you install the hose from the filter to the inlet side of the pump. It is the side with the arrow pointing toward the pump and it says “In”.
Tighten clamps.
Reinstall mounting bolts and tighten. Don’t forget to install ground wire under mounting bolt.
Connect power wire.
When you first turn the key on you should hear the pump run until the pressure builds.
Check for leaks.

Ignition Coil Installation Instructions 

Disconnect spark plug wires from spark plugs.
Disconnect primary wires from harness and distributor.
Using a 10 mm socket or wrench remove the mounting nut.
Remove coil from car.
Grind or drill the rivets that hold the bracket to the coil.
Bolt the bracket to the new coil with the supplied bolts, nuts and washers.
Reinstall mounting nut and tighten.
Reconnect the primary wires to the harness and distributor.
Reconnect the spark plug wires to the spark plugs.

Front Strut Rebuild Instructions 

These instructions are for both Sedans and Coupes. The only difference between them is how long they are.
You will need a 2 inch wrench. You may be able to borrow/rent one from a parts store such as Autozone or O’Reilly’s. Many times they have tools that you can borrow with a deposit that you get back when you return the tool.
You will also need a can of Brake Cleaner to clean out the strut tube, internal valves and parts before assembly. Black Caliper Paint makes a nice looking durable finish before final assembly.
1.   Using the 2 inch wrench loosen and unscrew the top nut. It will be tight. Heat from a propane torch on the outside of the strut housing may help the nut release.
2.   Once the top nut has been removed you will be able to remove the shaft, internal tube and dump the old oil out.
3.   Remove and discard the old seals and white wiper from the shaft. It helps if you lay the parts out on the bench in the same location as where you found them.
4.   Using the Brake Cleaner spray the bottom piston where the white wiper was to fully clean any dirt and old oil out of the valves. You should not remove the valve assemble. There is nothing you can do with what is in there. There are no replaceable parts in the valves.
5.   Install the new white wiper (#1) on the piston.
6.   Install the new bump stop (#2) on the shaft. Set the shaft aside in a clean place.
7.   Press the bushing (#5) from the top sleeve. You can use a press or a bench vise or a hammer and bushing removal tool.
8.   Install the new bushing (#5) in the same manner. Any extra length can hang out the bottom side of the top sleeve.
9.   You will need to have the bushing (#5) sized by an Automotive Machine Shop. It is the same job for them as sizing a piston pin bushing in an engine. They should use the same clearance standards as any popular piston pin bushing. The finished piece should slide on the shaft without much resistance and wiggle around. It should have the same “feel” as a piston pin bushing.
10.     Slide the sleeve with the new bushing (#5) on the shaft. You can use a tiny dab of the new oil inside the bushing as assembly lube if you’d like. It is not really required since the whole thing gets filled with new oil anyway.
11.     Install the shaft assembly into the tube and set it aside.
12.     Install the new top seal (#3) into the strut body.
13.     Use a punch and hammer to remove the old one-piece top seal (#4) from the nut.
14.     Install the new twin top seals (#4) into the top nut. These are positioned with the first seal lip facing the outside world. The inner seal lip faces the inside of the strut. The photo shows their relative position.
15.     You may lube the top seal (#4) with a small dab of the new oil.
16.     Pour the new oil into the strut body. It should take all of the included oil without overflowing.
17.     Reinstall the top nut and tighten with the 2 inch wrench. The nut should be very tight. Remember how tight it was when you first broke it loose. You can use a small amount of Loctite Blue to help hold it tight.


Idle Solenoid Installation Instructions

Be sure to install the black ground wire. It must be installed correctly or the Idle Solenoid will not work correctly.
The large terminal must be installed under one of the intake manifold mounting bolts.
The small terminal must be installed under the solenoid mounting screw.
Proper installation will ensure a proper ground for the solenoid.

Copper Head Gasket Annealing Instructions

Annealing is a heat treatment process that softens copper. You can use this process so you can reuse the copper head gasket several times.
1.   Use a propane torch to heat the copper gasket until it appears just dark red while you are in a dark location. More red or orange is not necessary. Ideally, a temperature of about 900 degrees F is optimal.
2.    Let the gasket air cool.
3.    Once cool (in about five - ten minutes) brush with a "Scotch-Bright" pad on a flat hard surface to clean and flatten.
4.    Install gasket per repair manual instructions.
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